Hentor Sportscaster Switching Question

[MarkScudder]

So I mentioned in another thread that I was going to start buying parts to build a Sportscaster, but the money's just not there. So I'm doing a "first draft" on a Squier so I'll have the experience to do it right (and probably just move some of the parts over) when I have the money to buy a MIM Strat or whatever.

 

But I'm stuck at the switch.

 

So many people have said Alex used a "Gibson switch" or "Les Paul style switching" that I went out and got a Les Paul switch. Then I found where Freddy G. said the wiring is Bridge/Neck + Middle/Neck, and I can't for the life of me figure out how to do that with a two-position common-center Gibson switch. Then I read somewhere that it's a special 3-pole switch used in the three-humbucker Les Paul Deluxe. I googled for an hour for "three position Gibson switch" and got nothing, plus a lot of links to normal, two position Gibson switches.

 

Nobody seems to have a wiring diagram for this either, and so I'm sitting here ready to solder, I might or might not have the right switch, and can't find this answer. I sent _pete_ an email a few days back but haven't heard from him. Anybody have any idea?

 

If it was a SuperStrat I'd just experiment, but my temperament doesn't do well with having to wire it up one way, assemble it, put strings on, try it, then take the strings off, disassemble it, try it a different way, reassemble it, put strings back on it, etc. Probably the #1 reason I hate working on Strats. Anyway, if anyone could point me in the right direction, this is driving me mad.

 

-mark

Edited January 12, 2014 by MarkScudder

[CygnusX-1Bk2]

Are you sure he said Bridge/Neck + Middle/Neck? That is one setting shy.

 

I did PTD's Ace Frehley style Les Paul for him and it was Neck, All 3 and Bridge with 3 volume and 1 master tone so you could have any combination. The Hentor has master volume and master tone. You'd think the wiring would be Neck, Neck/Middle, Bridge. I think there was a version (red or black) with an additional 2 way toggle for the middle pickup in which case what you mention would make more sense.

[MarkScudder]

Neck, Neck/Middle, Bridge is correct. However I can't find the right switch or a wiring diagram that shows how to do it. All the "Gibson-style" toggle switches are for two-pickup setups, and the middle position just combines the two. Far as I can tell there's no way to wire it for three pickups.

 

It's strange, because it seems a bunch of people have built Sportscasters, yet there is literally no information on how they're wired, and where to get this elusive Gibson switch that's not a Gibson switch.

 

I may be being hard-headed, but at this point I have no interest in building one with two switches, a second to cut in/out the middle pickup. If Alex did it (and Alex doesn't manufacture custom toggle switches in his basement), then it's possible. And if Freddy's doing it, it's possible.

[Bluefunk]

There's a photo from Freddy here:

http://www.thegearpa...=1198292&page=7

Not sure if that's any help or not.

[CygnusX-1Bk2]

Hard to tell from that. I can see that "down" is the bridge but it's hard to see the middle and up connections. Zooming helps a little. But bottom to top it looks like an open terminal then the + from the middle pickup which could also have the + from the neck. Tough to tell with the shrink wrap.

[CygnusX-1Bk2]

Here's a diagram from Seymour Duncan for a 3 way Gibson switch:

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=3ws_trans

 

Now here's a Tele with 3 pickups:

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=3pickup_tele

 

I am thinking (using Freddie's picture from the link) you'll have to terminate the bridge on the opposite side of where it's shown on the Duncan diagram then take a new lead from the other terminal and run that to the volume pot. So basically when in that position the only thing connected is the bridge. Instead of bridging the middle terminals you would bridge from the top to the middle with the two pickups wired to opposite sides bridging to the middle pickup connection. Without seeing it it's as close as I can imagine.

Edited January 14, 2014 by CygnusX-1Bk2

[MarkScudder]

After much research, it appears that this is the switch:

 

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Components:_Switches_and_knobs/Right-angle_Metric_Toggle_Switch.html?actn=100101&xst=2&xsr=i-1217

 

One of the comments mentions it has extra lugs which make it "perfect for 3 p/u guitars".

 

Being impatient, I wired my HSS Strat the Hentor way tonight and it can be done on a double pole 3-position switch (I used a Cor-Tek or whatever those ones in the Korean superstrats are) and you can do it by wiring the neck pu across terminals 1 and 2 on one pole, and the middle pu on terminal 2 on the other pole.

 

The Gibson pickup diagrams you posted are for their ubiquitous center-common switch, where the middle position simply combines the output of two pickups. That's the switch that has been getting in my way all the time I've been searching. Apparently I need to buy a hundred of those Stewmac switches so I never need to wade through all this again! :-)

 

Worst part is, every electronics/industrial supplier makes DP3T switches, but not in the "right angle" form factor that fits in the horn of a Strat. Oh, Lerxst.

[CygnusX-1Bk2]

Still the solder points will have to correspond. The Les Paul style switches are long but I remember seeing these much shorter a long time ago. But I haven't done much switch replacement in guitars. I had a 71 SG that I could swear the switch was half as long as the one in my current Les Paul. I have an Epi Les Paul that my dad has right now otherwise I'd pop it open but I think that switch body resembles more of a slide switch.

 

Check Mouser:

http://www.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Switches/Toggle-Switches/_/N-5g2j?P=1z0z2o3

Edited January 14, 2014 by CygnusX-1Bk2

[CygnusX-1Bk2]

Found this guy:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/M2044SS1W03-BE/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvudeGI7i40XP93sFwtDpTa8WUk6HCP9Cs%3d

 

And this guy:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/M2024SS1W03-BA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvudeGI7i40XP93sFwtDpTa3Lob2D70qA4%3d

 

And for a red one:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/M2024SS1W03-BC/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvudeGI7i40XP93sFwtDpTasVEuaDKptx0%3d

 

Also saw this on StewMac (short one):

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Components:_Switches_and_knobs/Switchcraft_Toggle_Switches.html

 

Fun!

Edited January 14, 2014 by CygnusX-1Bk2

[CygnusX-1Bk2]

After much research, it appears that this is the switch:

 

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Components:_Switches_and_knobs/Right-angle_Metric_Toggle_Switch.html?actn=100101&xst=2&xsr=i-1217

 

One of the comments mentions it has extra lugs which make it "perfect for 3 p/u guitars".

 

Being impatient, I wired my HSS Strat the Hentor way tonight and it can be done on a double pole 3-position switch (I used a Cor-Tek or whatever those ones in the Korean superstrats are) and you can do it by wiring the neck pu across terminals 1 and 2 on one pole, and the middle pu on terminal 2 on the other pole.

 

The Gibson pickup diagrams you posted are for their ubiquitous center-common switch, where the middle position simply combines the output of two pickups. That's the switch that has been getting in my way all the time I've been searching. Apparently I need to buy a hundred of those Stewmac switches so I never need to wade through all this again! :-)

 

Worst part is, every electronics/industrial supplier makes DP3T switches, but not in the "right angle" form factor that fits in the horn of a Strat. Oh, Lerxst.

Your wiring is similar to what I described. The bridge I mentioned is the same as wiring the neck to both positions. They use the term "jumper" in the instructions tab for the switch you posted which has a selection for wiring 3 pickup guitars which resembles Freddy's picture come to think of it. :) It's the only of the toggle switches on StewMac with those instructions too.

 

Oh and the switch you posted is metric, they also make a "standard" version as well if you're using inches. :)

Edited January 14, 2014 by CygnusX-1Bk2

[LerxstLuthier]

I'm having a great day (wish me a happy B-day!) so i thought I'd pay it forward. Cheers!

 

 

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo56/FreddyGabs/HentorSwitchSchematic_zps77af905f.jpg

[CygnusX-1Bk2]

Happy birthday Freddy!

 

Thanks for the diagram. :)

[LerxstLuthier]

Happy birthday Freddy!

 

Thanks for the diagram. :)

 

Thanks Cyg!

[MarkScudder]

Thanks Freddy (and happy birthday). I should have posted that I figured it out from your one picture of the assembled pickguard. I recently lost my Mom to ovarian cancer and while working on guitars has brought me some peace, I haven't felt much like being social about it, so I neglected to post here that I'd figured it out.

 

So Cyg was right about the jumper, and it turns out I'd found the right switch. It took about a half hour of me and my wife staring at the pickguard photo to figure it out, and I'm sort of shocked that I did. The guitar sounds right, now just waiting for my L500 to arrive, and a new Warmoth pickguard so I can only drill the holes I need.

 

I will post a build thread shortly, but for now here's a picture of my Hentor as it is right now.

 

http://www.markscudder.com/trf/IMG_2758.jpg

 

The wood-grain Strat is actually a more interesting story that I'll post about sometime, too.

[rushist]

Hi all , first post and a question at that , boo.

 

Looking at Freddys kindly donated diagram and my stew mac 6 pole on-on-on switch diagram , assuming the poles are the same I see the wiring shown as

 

Bridge/middle/neck

Neck/middle

Neck/middle

 

This is based on

 

Switch up - 1-2,4-5

Switch middle - 2-3, 4-5

Switch down - 2-3, 5-6

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac246/electricrusselluk/Mobile%20Uploads/F1D8AD93-B444-4FDA-BEBF-898AAB52D2BE_zps8wi7edjg.jpg

 

I am guessing that my interpretation must be incorrect - would anyone kindly set me straight?

Edited September 5, 2014 by rushist

[LerxstLuthier]

There are a gazillion ways one could wire different pickup configurations to a DPDT switch. That stew-mac switch works exactly with my wiring diagram shown above.

[rushist]

Freddy thanks for taking your time to reply .

 

It sounds like you are confirming

Bridge / middle / neck

Middle / neck

Middle / neck

 

Is how it's wired unless I'm misinterpreting . Sounds like a strange one!

[LerxstLuthier]

No.

 

Bridge

middle / neck

neck

[guitardrdock]

Hi all, first time poster here from the UK.

 

I am a guitar technician based in Birmingham, England - and a friend had a Bill Lawrence humbucker and wanted the 'Sportscaster' wiring.

 

He was not bothered about the 'Les Paul' type switch and the hassle of routing the guitar/cutting another plate etc so basically all I used was a normal 'Fender Telecaster' type switch and used that to get the three options. An additional 'coil tap' was fitted using a push-pull pot on the tone control to get another sound.

 

After playing the guitar with the pickup wiring like this I would like to say its the three tones you want out of a strat, so I can understand why Alex wanted it.

 

If anyone is interested in how I did this - I could sketch a diagram of how I did it with the standard telecaster switch.

 

All the best guys....

[MarkScudder]

Freddy's diagram is correct, and the StewMac switch is what I used. They were on clearance when I bought them around this time last year, so they're probably very hard to find now.

 

I just got my Olympic White nitro and put a few coats on. An ebony neck is still out of my price range, but this is what it looks like now. Sounds spot-on, too.

 

The only thing I don't know about yet is the finish. Fender didn't clear-coat Olympic White guitars because it yellows the finish. So I'm not sure if I just need to put another few coats on or what, the finish feels very "unfinished." If I buff it, will the paint provide a clear-coat-like protection, or is this thing always going to be easy to ding up and scratch?

 

http://i.imgur.com/zVDX8rZ.jpg?1

[EagleMoon]

Could you use an acrylic sealer topcoat so that it won't yellow?

[MarkScudder]

I have less than no idea.

[EagleMoon]

I have less than no idea.

 

I would think as long as there's no reaction between the nitro and the acrylic you'd be good to go.

[Brad737]

I realize this topic is ancient. But I’m a bit stumped. The wiring diagram above isn’t visible, but I found this one online. Is it the same?

I’ve wired up a few guitars in my day, but I’m certainly no expert. First of all, what pot values do you all use?  Since I’ll probably spend 99% of my time on the bridge pickup, I’m assuming a pair of 500k pots are the way to go. Next, what value cap do you suggest for the tone pot?  Lastly, using the 3-way toggle, is there a way to add a 250k resistor so the single coils only see 250k?

 

Thanks,

Brad

[dream & vapour]

2 hours ago, Brad737 said:

I realize this topic is ancient. But I’m a bit stumped. The wiring diagram above isn’t visible, but I found this one online. Is it the same?

I’ve wired up a few guitars in my day, but I’m certainly no expert. First of all, what pot values do you all use?  Since I’ll probably spend 99% of my time on the bridge pickup, I’m assuming a pair of 500k pots are the way to go. Next, what value cap do you suggest for the tone pot?  Lastly, using the 3-way toggle, is there a way to add a 250k resistor so the single coils only see 250k?

 

Thanks,

Brad

Yes, that's the Hentor diagram.

Yes, 500k volume and tone pots.

.033uF tone capacitor (but your discretion, obviously)

 

If you wished to add resistors to the single coils, I believe you could add them at the middle and neck connectors of the 3-way toggle.  So, you'd have the leads from the single coils soldered to the middle connector, and the neck connector.  Then, you would also have an adjacent resistor soldered to the middle connector (on the 3-way toggle), then to ground.  And another resistor soldered to the neck connector, then to ground.  The single coils would then be 'seeing' 250k each.

 

Mind you, you might not want to go to all that trouble.  There's no law stating single coils can't see over 250k.  Fender Jaguars have, what, 1M pots?  At 500k, the single coils will certainly be brighter than at 250k.  You could offset this by selecting single coils that are warmer (less trebly), such as a DiMarzio SDS-1, or an FS-1.  Or you could install single coil size humbuckers, such as a Seymour Duncan Little '59 Strat.  There's a wealth of choices, as you know.

 

Perhaps you will be using the EP-0065-000 switch found here: https://guitarpartsresource.com/electrical_toggleswitches.htm