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Narpski, need help.


Aikenrooster
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OK, I bought this side by side Whirpool refrigerator for my wife a month ago. The guy at Lowe's sold me one of those saddle valve, piercing type, kits to go on the cold water supply line to the water inlet on the fridge, to have water and ice. Well, the water flow was very slow.

 

I didnt' like that valve, so I got online and bought a proper fitting for the 1/2 in. cold water supply line, that has a proper 1/4 in. outlet for the plastic line out to the fridge. It also has a valve, so I can turn the water off under the sink. Much improved. I disconnected the line from the refrigerator and I got mad pressure. All good. I reconnected the line to the fridge.

 

But, I don't have that same pressure when I try to dispense a cup of water. It still takes a long time to fill up an 8oz. glass.

 

The refrigerator has a water filter, and I took it out, but no change in the pressure.

 

My question:

 

Is it supposed to be slow, or, when I used the piercing type valve, the first time, did a piece of pvc pipe get in the line and clog it up?

Edited by Aikenrooster
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To answer your last question first. I highly doubt that anything got stuck in the line. Those piercing valves are very simplistic in design and are used in many applications as you probably know. They just bore a hole and then you back it out and you have flow. If you installed the piercing valve correctly it should have been a done deal at that point. They are commonly used and pretty reliable. Define "long time" if you would please?....
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BTW. Just some general info for all TRFers out there. My main area of expertise is in the HVAC field. I do know quite a bit of electrical and plumbing also. If you need help or have a question about anything I would be happy to try to help in any way I can. You can use this thread to do so. It makes me feel good and useful to help as since I have not been working for quite a while I feel a bit underutilized at times and it bums me out a little. If you need to know how to build a vegetable garden to end all vegetable gardens you may need to refer to LIX for that one.... :LOL: Edited by Narpski
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To answer your last question first. I highly doubt that anything got stuck in the line. Those piercing valves are very simplistic in design and are used in many applications as you probably know. They just bore a hole and then you back it out and you have flow. If you installed the piercing valve correctly it should have been a done deal at that point. They are commonly used and pretty reliable. Define "long time" if you would please?....

OK. If I disconnect the plastic line from the back of the refrigerator and turn on the supply, it will fill an 8oz. glass in 11 seconds. If I hook that line up and dispense water into the glass, it only fills up half the glass in 11 seconds.

 

BTW, I put in the new, and more better, valve, over 4 hours ago, and I turned on the ice maker, hoping that it would make ice, since, well, that's why I paid more for this refrigerator(BTW, I've never had automatic ice before), and it's only made 10 very little cubes, so far.

 

Do you think I should disconnect any of the lines from the water intlet valve on the back of the refrigerator? They're all compression fittings, so easy to take them apart.

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Its gonna take quite a while before the ice bin fills up. As long as you can hear the tray dumping and the water filling the tray periodically I wouldn't concern myself with that. Inside the refrigerator there is a water holding tank also that must be filled before the water will flow more quickly. Mine took 10 seconds to fill 8 oz's but my fridge has been there 14 years. If you haven't already I would "bleed" the water for a few minutes and see if the water dispenses more quickly if that makes any sense. You are in essence getting all the air out of the tank and lines..... Edited by Narpski
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To answer your last question first. I highly doubt that anything got stuck in the line. Those piercing valves are very simplistic in design and are used in many applications as you probably know. They just bore a hole and then you back it out and you have flow. If you installed the piercing valve correctly it should have been a done deal at that point. They are commonly used and pretty reliable. Define "long time" if you would please?....

OK. If I disconnect the plastic line from the back of the refrigerator and turn on the supply, it will fill an 8oz. glass in 11 seconds. If I hook that line up and dispense water into the glass, it only fills up half the glass in 11 seconds.

 

BTW, I put in the new, and more better, valve, over 4 hours ago, and I turned on the ice maker, hoping that it would make ice, since, well, that's why I paid more for this refrigerator(BTW, I've never had automatic ice before), and it's only made 10 very little cubes, so far.

 

Do you think I should disconnect any of the lines from the water intlet valve on the back of the refrigerator? They're all compression fittings, so easy to take them apart.

My fridge takes one and a half days to refill the ice bin when it's empty.

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To answer your last question first. I highly doubt that anything got stuck in the line. Those piercing valves are very simplistic in design and are used in many applications as you probably know. They just bore a hole and then you back it out and you have flow. If you installed the piercing valve correctly it should have been a done deal at that point. They are commonly used and pretty reliable. Define "long time" if you would please?....

OK. If I disconnect the plastic line from the back of the refrigerator and turn on the supply, it will fill an 8oz. glass in 11 seconds. If I hook that line up and dispense water into the glass, it only fills up half the glass in 11 seconds.

 

BTW, I put in the new, and more better, valve, over 4 hours ago, and I turned on the ice maker, hoping that it would make ice, since, well, that's why I paid more for this refrigerator(BTW, I've never had automatic ice before), and it's only made 10 very little cubes, so far.

 

Do you think I should disconnect any of the lines from the water intlet valve on the back of the refrigerator? They're all compression fittings, so easy to take them apart.

My fridge takes one and a half days to refill the ice bin when it's empty.

Lots of freezing and dumping and keeping the "stop" clear of ice as well...... :yes:
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I still don't have much ice and the water flow is the same. I disconnected the supply line from the back of the refrigerator and cut the line and put a new one of those little "support thingy" things in the plastic line and reconnected it, just to eliminate if I may have tightened it too much, but no change. I pulled out the filter and shook the water out, just to see if it was clogged and reinstalled.

 

The problem is, I don't know what the flow rate should be, because I've never had this type of refrigerator before. I'll give it over the weekend before I make a phone call.

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Our water dispenser gets very slow when the filter needs replacing - that is usually our sign that it's time :)

 

Looks like you already explored that, though.

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How's the fridge?..... :huh:

Well, the water dispenser is still slow, but, the ice maker works fine, and is keeping up with our usage. I think you were partially right. While the water line to the water dispenser was purged, I think that the water line to the ice dispenser was NOT purged, and that's why the cubes were so little. The cubes are bigger, and the bin is full! I'm still glad I changed that valve.
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How's the fridge?..... :huh:

Well, the water dispenser is still slow, but, the ice maker works fine, and is keeping up with our usage. I think you were partially right. While the water line to the water dispenser was purged, I think that the water line to the ice dispenser was NOT purged, and that's why the cubes were so little. The cubes are bigger, and the bin is full! I'm still glad I changed that valve.

Sweet..... :cheers: :d13:
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Oh, here's my other question: On my pickup truck, it has an auxiliary diesel fuel tank, sitting in the bed, where a tool box would sit on most other pickup trucks. It has a line coming out of the bottom, of course, which is, obviously, tied into the spout for the main fuel tank. However, there is some copper tubing that goes into the top of this tank, from the fuel line. What is this line for? And, how does this system work. There is an inline spin-on fuel filter, but I don't see a fuel pump. Is this simply gravity fed.

 

Sorry, I've had this truck for 4 years, and I've never inquired about how the system actually works. I love it, though, because I can buy a lot of diesel, when it's cheap, and ride our a period of expensive prices.

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Oh, here's my other question: On my pickup truck, it has an auxiliary diesel fuel tank, sitting in the bed, where a tool box would sit on most other pickup trucks. It has a line coming out of the bottom, of course, which is, obviously, tied into the spout for the main fuel tank. However, there is some copper tubing that goes into the top of this tank, from the fuel line. What is this line for? And, how does this system work. There is an inline spin-on fuel filter, but I don't see a fuel pump. Is this simply gravity fed.

 

Sorry, I've had this truck for 4 years, and I've never inquired about how the system actually works. I love it, though, because I can buy a lot of diesel, when it's cheap, and ride our a period of expensive prices.

That inquiry is above my pay grade. I would be lying to you if I said I knew anything about that one. Honesty always.... :)
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BTW. Just some general info for all TRFers out there. My main area of expertise is in the HVAC field. I do know quite a bit of electrical and plumbing also. If you need help or have a question about anything I would be happy to try to help in any way I can. You can use this thread to do so. It makes me feel good and useful to help as since I have not been working for quite a while I feel a bit underutilized at times and it bums me out a little. If you need to know how to build a vegetable garden to end all vegetable gardens you may need to refer to LIX for that one.... :LOL:

 

 

Narpski,

 

How do i cook Corn Dogs? :huh:

 

Sorry,

 

I couldn't resist. :LOL: I will ask you any mechanical issues in this thread. Thanks Bro!! :ebert:

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Oh, here's my other question: On my pickup truck, it has an auxiliary diesel fuel tank, sitting in the bed, where a tool box would sit on most other pickup trucks. It has a line coming out of the bottom, of course, which is, obviously, tied into the spout for the main fuel tank. However, there is some copper tubing that goes into the top of this tank, from the fuel line. What is this line for? And, how does this system work. There is an inline spin-on fuel filter, but I don't see a fuel pump. Is this simply gravity fed.

 

Sorry, I've had this truck for 4 years, and I've never inquired about how the system actually works. I love it, though, because I can buy a lot of diesel, when it's cheap, and ride our a period of expensive prices.

That inquiry is above my pay grade. I would be lying to you if I said I knew anything about that one. Honesty always.... :)

Thanks. Oh, BTW, once winter was over the electrical bill went waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay down. Obviously you were right about the type of heating. I looked up some YouTube videos about Ohm's law, and resistance, and I see why it is an expensive method of heating.

 

I need to get this problem rectified. I want to do that and get a new oven. That will basically be replacing the "big 4" that you told me about as far as big users of electricity.

 

Thanks for your input, always.

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Oh, here's my other question: On my pickup truck, it has an auxiliary diesel fuel tank, sitting in the bed, where a tool box would sit on most other pickup trucks. It has a line coming out of the bottom, of course, which is, obviously, tied into the spout for the main fuel tank. However, there is some copper tubing that goes into the top of this tank, from the fuel line. What is this line for? And, how does this system work. There is an inline spin-on fuel filter, but I don't see a fuel pump. Is this simply gravity fed.

 

Sorry, I've had this truck for 4 years, and I've never inquired about how the system actually works. I love it, though, because I can buy a lot of diesel, when it's cheap, and ride our a period of expensive prices.

That inquiry is above my pay grade. I would be lying to you if I said I knew anything about that one. Honesty always.... :)

Thanks. Oh, BTW, once winter was over the electrical bill went waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay down. Obviously you were right about the type of heating. I looked up some YouTube videos about Ohm's law, and resistance, and I see why it is an expensive method of heating.

 

I need to get this problem rectified. I want to do that and get a new oven. That will basically be replacing the "big 4" that you told me about as far as big users of electricity.

 

Thanks for your input, always.

My pleasure. Yes resistance heat is a utility bill killer and to be avoided if at all possible. There are many ways to heat and you need to find a different way. I have recently been tweaking and reconfiguring some duct work in my attic to lessen my summer bill and so far have been successful. Adding duct runs, a return etc. etc. My upstairs heat pump had been running way to much and I couldn't stand it anymore. It cost me some on materials up front but I will get it all back and then some in the future.....
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BTW. Just some general info for all TRFers out there. My main area of expertise is in the HVAC field. I do know quite a bit of electrical and plumbing also. If you need help or have a question about anything I would be happy to try to help in any way I can. You can use this thread to do so. It makes me feel good and useful to help as since I have not been working for quite a while I feel a bit underutilized at times and it bums me out a little. If you need to know how to build a vegetable garden to end all vegetable gardens you may need to refer to LIX for that one.... :LOL:

 

 

Narpski,

 

How do i cook Corn Dogs? :huh:

 

Sorry,

 

I couldn't resist. :LOL: I will ask you any mechanical issues in this thread. Thanks Bro!! :ebert:

First you get some corn, then you get a dog. Then you put them both in a bowl and mix it up. Then throw that bowl in the oven for 1 hour at 450 degrees. Take it out, wait 5 minutes before eating and you have yourself a corndog.

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Yo, Narpski, I'm being quoted $4700 to have a 3 ton ac/heat pump installed. The guy is guaranteeing parts and labor for 10 years (he says that's $500 of the quote). My duct work is intact. Is this price too high? Thx.
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OK, I bought this side by side Whirpool refrigerator for my wife a month ago. The guy at Lowe's sold me one of those saddle valve, piercing type, kits to go on the cold water supply line to the water inlet on the fridge, to have water and ice. Well, the water flow was very slow.

 

I didnt' like that valve, so I got online and bought a proper fitting for the 1/2 in. cold water supply line, that has a proper 1/4 in. outlet for the plastic line out to the fridge. It also has a valve, so I can turn the water off under the sink. Much improved. I disconnected the line from the refrigerator and I got mad pressure. All good. I reconnected the line to the fridge.

 

But, I don't have that same pressure when I try to dispense a cup of water. It still takes a long time to fill up an 8oz. glass.

 

The refrigerator has a water filter, and I took it out, but no change in the pressure.

 

My question:

 

Is it supposed to be slow, or, when I used the piercing type valve, the first time, did a piece of pvc pipe get in the line and clog it up?

I have one of those and if your fridge is not a "fast fill" refrigerator then, yes it can be slow. A tall glass can take 20 -30 seconds to fill to the top. I think its normal.
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Yo, Narpski, I'm being quoted $4700 to have a 3 ton ac/heat pump installed. The guy is guaranteeing parts and labor for 10 years (he says that's $500 of the quote). My duct work is intact. Is this price too high? Thx.

 

What brand is it? My dad has worked in HVAC for 30+ years - he personally thinks Goodman and Trane are best value, not as big a fan of lennox.

Do you have access to natural gas? Im assuming no since you are considering a heat pump

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Yo, Narpski, I'm being quoted $4700 to have a 3 ton ac/heat pump installed. The guy is guaranteeing parts and labor for 10 years (he says that's $500 of the quote). My duct work is intact. Is this price too high? Thx.

What brand is it? Probably a Goodman I would guess. If the company is reputable and you feel will be around to honor your warranty then I would say it sounds like a good deal. The equipment and materials is about half of that cost. My former company would be 3 grand higher than that. If you feel good about them then it sounds like a good deal to me. I just hope 3 tons is the correct size for your home.....
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Yo, Narpski, I'm being quoted $4700 to have a 3 ton ac/heat pump installed. The guy is guaranteeing parts and labor for 10 years (he says that's $500 of the quote). My duct work is intact. Is this price too high? Thx.

 

What brand is it? My dad has worked in HVAC for 30+ years - he personally thinks Goodman and Trane are best value, not as big a fan of lennox.

Do you have access to natural gas? Im assuming no since you are considering a heat pump

I think Goodman are the worst BTW but they are very popular. Trane is the best built and uses the best most reliable parts (relays, contactors, compressors, txv's etc.) in my opinion..... Edited by Narpski
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